Mountain Mystique
Written by Bridget Williams
Mountains are magical. From their snow-capped peaks to the mesmerizing duet of light and shadow enacted upon ancient rock faces that jut dramatically from the valley floor, it's little wonder that humans have heeded the Tetons' siren song for at least 10,000 years. With so much protected acreage in the area, Native American and 19th century Anglo-American fur trappers and explorers would likely find the pristine vista of peaks towering above the ess curves of the aptly named Snake River— perfectly captured by Ansel Adams in a 1942 photograph—familiar and still awe-inspiring. However, outside of this, present-day life in Jackson Hole, with its luxury resorts, multimillion-dollar homes, and upscale boutiques, bears little resemblance to the rough, rugged, and isolated life they eked out in this harsh environment. At press time, the most expensive residential property in Jackson Hole was listed at $65 million, a far cry from the $1.25 an acre on offer due to the Homestead Act of 1862.
From its perch atop East Gros Ventre Butte, Amangani literally sits at the pinnacle of ultra-luxury options in the valley since it opened in 1998 as the first Aman resort in the United States. A contemporary expression of the alpine aesthetic designed by architect Ed Tuttle and rendered in wood, stone, and glass, the built environment captures the alluring and enduring mystique of the American West by playing a supporting role to the Tetons' majesty.
As soon as we landed at the Jackson Hole Airport, the only commercial airport entirely located in a national park, and one thousand-feet higher in elevation than Denver International Airport, I stopped to gawk at the scene from the jet bridge. Within minutes, my nemesis altitude announced its arrival via a pesky headache. It was something I was anticipating and learned to conquer by drinking lots of water and getting a good night's rest, which I knew would be assured by the tranquility and comfort of my room at Amangani.
Admiring the vastness of the landscape en route to the resort lends the property a remote feel. However, if you are keen on a hike to the crest of the butte (led weekly by affable GM Stuart Lang, who's a delight to converse with), you'll see just how centrally located Amangani is to the area's significant points of interest. From the peak, you can spy the ski resort (jacksonhole.com), the town of Jackson Hole, and the National Elk Refuge (fws.gov/refuge/national-elk). From here, there's a trail leading to the 51,000 square foot National Museum of Wildlife Art (wildlifeart.org), the only museum in the world dedicated exclusively to wildlife art. The museum's striking Idaho quartzite façade, which overlooks the Elk Refuge, makes it appear one with the landscape. It's well worth a visit, followed by lunch at Palate, their on-site restaurant, which is top-notch.
“Mountain Mystique” is featured in our July/ August issue: