Storming the Castle — Sophisticated St. Louis

Living the life of a “Golden Guinness Girl” at Ireland’s Ashford Castle

by Claire Williams / Photos courtesy of Ashford Castle

On a recent winter night in Ireland's County Mayo at Squire Danagher's Cottage, the original house where 'The Quiet Man' with John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara was filmed in the 1950s, we feasted on a traditional Irish dinner comprised of slow-cooked stew and potatoes (with a few glasses of champagne and seasonal canapes added to the mix). We capped off the private dining experience at this Ashford Castle outpost by sipping warmed whiskey while local students showed off their Irish dancing skills and traditional songs were performed in front of the fireplace. Much like Wayne's character of Sean Thorton, I felt right at home.

Ashford Castle sits on a beautiful 350-acre estate near the village of Cong and in County Galway.

Ireland has always evoked feelings of home for me. I know I'm not alone, with nearly ten percent of the US population reporting Irish ancestry. In my case, it's Éire's rolling hills, rugged landscape, and picturesque villages dotting the countryside that stir up something deep inside, making even first-timers feel a sense of déjà vu.

At Ashford Castle, it's the Irish themselves who feel the tug on their heartstrings as second and third generations of families, from guests to employees, have continued to return to the storied estate, spanning 350 acres of gardens, woodland along the shores of Lough Corrib, the largest lake within the Republic of Ireland. The manicured grounds provide for an array of activities ranging from country classics, such as horse riding, shooting, falconry, and fishing, to modern favorites, such as golf and biking.

Vaster than its setting is Ashford Castle's nearly 800-year history. Built in 1228 as a medieval fortress, it was passed among noble owners, most notably the Guinness family, who fashioned it into a "grand retreat" to impress well-to-do guests. Following centuries of additions, expansions, and owners, Ashford Castle joined the Red Carnation Hotels family in 2013. The Tollman family's ardent affinity for the property ushered in a massive multi-million-dollar renovation that breathed new life into the castle and reestablished its pre-eminence among the world's luxury hotels.

A symbol of the Tollman's sweet spot for Ashford Castle is delivered at check-in: a chocolate Irish wolfhound crafted by director of chocolate and patisserie Paula Stakelum, lovingly named 'Stanley' after the late Stanley Tollman. When he died at 91 in 2021, Niall Gibbons, head of Tourism Ireland, wrote, "The investment of Red Carnation Hotels into Ashford Castle ... and the consequential impact on rural Ireland cannot be overstated."

Entering the hallowed halls at Ashford Castle feels a bit like emerging from a time capsule. Still, the castle's contemporary grandeur is something even former esteemed guest George V would revel in, from the castle's 83 rooms, each uniquely designed (but always equipped with a pair of Hunter boots and a tartan jacket for the weather) to the myriad of amenities and experiences that make every stay different than the last. Ashford exquisitely balances the royal experience with humble pleasures, allowing guests to experience Ireland's history and culture but at an elevated level.

Oak Hall Lodge sits at the heart and soul of the castle.

A pinnacle experience for guests who are keen to sample an afternoon of royal rural idyll in the Irish countryside, Ashford's School of Falconry, the country’s oldest, offers a "Hawk Walk". As you stroll the estate grounds, a pair of feathered friends follow along and deftly swoop onto your gloved hand for a quick bite.

Suppose you're more inclined to fur than feathers. In that case, you can walk through the woodlands with a member of Ashford's pack of canine companions: two Irish wolfhounds, an Irish setter, and a black lab (who guided the way with his favorite slipper in mouth). While our guide frequently stopped for photo ops and Q&A, my favorite moment was when he asked us to share a picture of our dog with the group and the collective "oohs and ahhs" that followed with each person's slideshow of their favorite pup.

Sitting at the apex of our afternoon activities was a round of clay shooting, and leading up to the excursion, I fretted that it would be a frustratingly fruitless pursuit. However, our patient and knowledgeable instructors made us such good shots that even the noblemen who roamed the grounds centuries ago would've been impressed.

Whether you're looking to unwind after a day of excitement or indulge in a self-care day, Ashford's award-winning Spa offers a comprehensive menu of treatments alongside impressive facilities encompassing a luminous relaxation pool, a hammam, a steam room, and a state-of-the-art fitness suite. Just recently opened on the Ashford estate is Éalú (an Irish word for 'escape'), a leisure and wellness facility with a suite of fitness facilities, classes, and one-on-one personal training sessions. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the pool pavilion illuminate the 15m pool, jacuzzi, splash pool, sauna, and essence-infused steam room.

The Spas at Ashford Castleis housed in a contemporary addition to the 14th century country castle.

The three-dimensional mosaic installation in the spa pool was designed by South African ceramic artist Jane du Rand.

I'd argue that one of Ashford's most impressive feats is reinventing what the world thinks of Irish food. Executive Head Chef Liam Finnegan's extensive 23-year career has led him to his Ashford, where his philosophy is keeping things simple but sourcing the best possible ingredients and executing every dish to perfection.

With their original kitchen gardens used during the Guinness era restored to their former glory by head gardener Alex Lavarde and his team, Ashford harvests seasonal ingredients and looks for every possible way to be more eco-friendly, such as using certain flowers as natural pesticides and working with as many local and organic food suppliers as possible.

Visiting the gardens, we crafted our dinner menu by pulling up carrots and cutting celery stalks. At the same time, Lavarde walked us through their future plans, including truffle propagated trees and growing willow to make handmade baskets, to name a few. Our dinner prepared later that day at Stanley's (patriarch Stanley Tollman's casual diner where he'd watch his beloved rugby matches) was entirely crafted by Finnegan with our ingredients foraged hours prior.

Cronan and Garvan, Ashford Castle’s resident Irish Wolfhounds. / Photo by Richard Moran.

Whether it's afternoon tea in the Connaught Room, with excellent recommendations from tea master Thomas and unique blends only found at Ashford created using herbs sourced on the estate, to fine dining in the George V dining room, where the Royal Ossetra Caviar and Martin Jenning's 28-day dry-aged short rib were just as excellent as the wine pairings compiled by resident sommelier Paul Fogerty, there are endless opportunities to discover the seasonal and local ingredients of Ireland with food that warms the soul.

The Connaught Room serves afternoon tea and views of the castle’s manicured gardens and Lough Corrib.

The George V dining room is named in honor of Gorge V of England, who visited Ashford Castle in 1905.

Today, the self-named 'characters of the castle' are as constitutive as the ancient stone walls within which they work their magic. Following our first night, I was excited to see the staff's familiar faces, from Robert Bowe, the restaurant and wine program manager who cheerfully greeted us before each meal, to a colorful cast of characters who were happy to engage in quick quips and stories of the castle while delivering exceptional service. The rapport between guests and staff is one of the many aspects that makes Ashford so endearing. When every staff member addressed me by name, I felt just as vaunted as Aileen, Maureen, and Oonagh, the daughters of Ernest Guinness, dubbed the "Golden Guinness Girls" and darlings of 1920s British society who used to grace the halls of the castle.

While taking a nightcap in the Drawing Room, Ashford's lounge singer, Annette Griffith, took care to tour the room and greet familiar faces. It was a testament to her longevity at Ashford and guests' desire to keep coming back.

Our dinner at Squire Danagher's Cottage culminated with a classic apple pie; despite its humble reputation, the dessert became the talk of the trip, with the staff gifting us the coveted recipe as part of our turn-down service on the final night, proving not only the food was unforgettable (that was the topic of conversation over several days), but also that the staff takes a particular interest in the guests, and in this case handcrafting a small recipe booklet to bring home with us. Throughout its storied history, Ashford Castle served as a haven for the aristocrats who frequented it. Today, the Tollman family has ensured its legacy as a welcome and luxurious travelers' respite and symbol of Ireland for generations to come.